La Conserva- Canning Season for Tomatoes

The time of year has arrived that marks the near end of summer-   making la conserva (jars of preserved tomato puree) to last the entire year.  Some people actually jar sauce that's ready to go- tomatoes that are spiced and thick enough that they don't need to be cooked down when the jars are opened up for a lovely meal during the year.   My family makes two variations.  One is the traditional form, boiled san marzano tomatoes that are then pureed and reboiled, then canned with a bit of basil and a pinch of salt.   This version usually requires some liquid reduction when unjarred and used to add to pastas or other delicious fare.   The second variation began just about 10 years ago, when a family friend who is thicker than blood (our aunt Rosa) began cutting small chunks of onions, red peppers, parsley, garlic, and basil, sauteeing this mixture with oil, and then amending tomato sauce with this lovely combination before jarring her own sauce.  We fell in love with this concoction that we now devote at least 12 jars to this variation.

With Rosa, my mother, and myself in hand, we converted 12 bushels of tomatoes into sauce, just a few days ago.  Three of the bushels will go to me- that's approximately 45 one-liter jars full, enough for a year of frugal sauce use, or 6 months of unencumbered slathering on whatever I desire.

 

 

The set-up in my mom's garage-   a walk around her neighborhood any day of late August/ early September will guide you to any number of garages where tomato sauce is the artisanal food obsession du jour.

Chopping garlic for Sauce Variation #2... see the machine on the table? It's a massive 'passapomodoro'- electric tomato strainer imported from Italy.

Turning the sauce in the large vats to ensure it doesn't stick-  Three propane tanks and burners on the go for 12 bushels of tomatoes!

San Marzano tomatoes purchased from a local farm where a neighbor works.  They are washed and halved, then boiled in large vats until they are wrinkly and the vat has lots of liquid in it.  Then the tomatoes are run through the 'passapomodoro' for conserva/sauce preservation.  This year, with the abundant sunshine and late rains, the tomatoes that were produced are incredible.  Even better, the sauce they made is so sweet and thick with very little water.

When the tomatoes look like this, they are ready for the 'passapomodoro'.  Then one final boil, jarring, and the joy of eating!

 

A Summer A'Fare

Benvenuti Cibistas!
I know it's been a while since I've posted my culinary adventures.   Don't think it's because I abandoned you!  Rather, I simply had a summer that was more consumed with dancing, imbibing fabulous wines, and sustaining myself on a diet of sunshine, than any memorable cooking explorations.   That is, until I realized that I hadn't shared the latest Cibo In Cucina adventure that ushered in these summer months.  This menu, of course, as always, concocted and consumed alongside my mistress in the kitchen, soulsister chef Danielle Cowden, was inspired by the varied roast meats that typically make an appearance on any summer picnic table. 

The Menu du Jour:

Appetizer- Eggplant roulades (Grilled eggplant stuffed with chevre, roast pistacchios, and dried currants soaked in sweet vermouth, mustard seeds, and basil).

Main-  Zucchini-ricotta Ravioli with Stewed Porchetta sauce cooked in a beef demiglaze, topped with ricotta salata.
 
Grilled Heirloom tomatoes with basil-breadcrumb crust.

House-made Italian flatbread topped with buffala mozzarella, arugula, vincotto, and chili flakes.

Arrosticini/Spiedini- Central Italian roasted lamb skewers with sides of spicy hazelnut romanesco paste or parsley-olive oil-garlic glaze.

Dessert-  Polenta-encrusted Raspberry mousse tarts.


Eggplant Roulades:  Chef Danielle had wanted to try these out for some time.  Reconstituting the dried currants with my one of my fave liquors rendered it sublime.

Final Product:
Ravioli fatt'in casa (Housemade ravioli with
Zucchini-Ricotta filling *and a secret
ingredient, part family recipe, part
personal craziness).

I had bought a locally cured porchetta and wanted it to play the central part to a divine dish.  So off with homemade ravioli you go... Next time, I'm tackling my own housemade porchetta (once I make friends with a local farm that raises pigs sustainably).

Italian Homemade Flatbread (Pizza)

 

Spiedini/ Spiducci (the way we say it where they originate, in Abbruzzo), or Arrosticini.  Delicious lamb skewers.  Yes, they have them in many cultures, yes they have them with different meats, but there's something about the way these ones taste...  Whoever tries them, loves them forever.

Trying out different dips or sauces (though, they really don't need anything).

Polenta- Raspberry Custard Mousse Tarts.

 

Love and Buon Gusto, Con Affetto, Giovanna